Experiment in Plaid

75442b50-5704-4395-aa85-5815e50a48f5I’ve been wanting to try Crocheting a plaid pattern ever since I saw the Whistle and Ivy beanie pattern. She’s done a number of other things with the plaid, like pillows etc and it’s really simple but looks great. Her pattern uses 3 colours, black and 2 shades or red.

Plaid patterns are really a woven fabric technique. You get the plaid designs from the mixing of various colours of strands vertically and horizontally, which then create stripes and blocks that appear to be different colours, or grades of colours. For example, in what Whistle and Ivy does, the darker red mimics the look of plaid when red and black cross each other in a plaid weave. So to get a plaid effect rather than just a checkerboard, you have to use some ccombination of colours  that are graded or look like they are mixtures of the other colours. I suppose you could also do multi strand blocks for a more elaborate plaid effect, and then also weave lines of contrasting colours to mimic more complex plaid patterns.

There are these free vintage patterns for pot holders and placemats etc that show different ways of achieving a plaid effect in crochet. And a collection of some 10 plaid patterns on Moogly.

d3ebf4b2-a357-41d0-8230-d2c1ed148f5dI chose red, orange, yellow and Aran and kept it simple i.e. only 2 colours per row! And I didn’t want to do any weaving of chains through the pattern. I made a drawstring beanie for this, for a 12 year old who likes bright colours. Drawstring so it can be worn closed, or opened up for a ponytail, or bun, or even folded over for an ear warmer.

How did I do it? (Not quite a pattern!)

I started with the Aran and made enough dcs to fit around the head, joined than continued in the round. I did the colour rows alternating 3 dcs in each colour as follows:

  • Aran, yellow
  • Yellow, orange
  • Orange, red
  • yellow, orange
  • Aran, yellow

( and repeat until it is as long as you want)

Notes

img_0485– when you are switching colours, carry along the unused strand on top of the row below and crochet over it, switch colours in the last pull through of the 3rd dc.

– I didn’t want too many ends to weave in so I carried the unused strands of yarn up each row, by keeping the strands behind the first stitch of a row when I joined and then making the first stitch over the unused strands. It does mean you can see som of the strands on the wrong side, but not on the right side (see photo on the right)

– at the top, I did hdc, ch, hdc all around, switching colours every hdc!

– drawstring is a chain with a simple circle at the end.

this would make a cute purse…either flat or with the drawstring at the top!5125f520-a6ff-4183-aa15-80e267676d6a Continue reading “Experiment in Plaid”

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Dark “Rainbow” Gloves Pattern

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one of my nephews asked for rainbow gloves when he saw my fingerless driving gloves. I made those and sent him a photo so he then asked for “dark rainbow” gloves with “black and dark brown and dark red and dark white” (he’s almost 5 so I assumed maybe he calls all stripes rainbows). Since the original rainbow gloves were horizontal stripes I made these vertical, crocheting from side-to-side and joining up the side leaving a thumb hole.

PATTERN NOTES

Sizing:

The pattern below will give you child size gloves as follows –

  • 5.5″ wrist
  • 8″ around hand
  • 6″ long (2.5″ cuff)

but it is easy to adapt to any size.

The wrist ribbing is made from rows of sc in the back loops. You can make this as long as you want. The hand part is made from rows of regular hdc. Once you have the length you want you keep making rows until as wide as you want and then follow the pattern for the closing tab and button hole.

I did 2 buttonholes for adjustability.

Materials:

  • 40 g of size 4 yarn total in a small many colours as you want – I used black, brown and maroon in various brands. (Much less ends if you get a variegated yarn!)
  • Size I hook

Foundation sc and hdc: 

I start this glove with a chainless foundation sc, switching to foundation hdc. This allowed me to easily adjust the length I wanted for the wrist ribbing and hand. I don’t explain those here but there are many video and written tutorials. Alternatively, you can start as usual with a chain for the number of sc and hdc stitches you need, adding one turning chain.

Turning chain:

Every row ends with 1 ch, this is just the turning ch and does not replace or count as a stitch.

Colour changing:

change colours every 2 rows in the last stitch of the row. Just before last pull through of the sc, drop current colour and yarn over with new colour. Don’t cut the old colours, carry them along the edge of your work. When you make the turning ch at the end of the row, make it over the other strands of yarn to keep them on the side. You will be crocheting sc over this edge to hide the ends after but this method saves on weaving in.

Make 2 pieces. The fabric you are making will look the SA,e in both sides, so make two identical striping pieces. The right sides of the pieces where you crochet the bottoms edging and sew the button, will be opposite each other.

img_0455
Right sides facing. Top glove- tab and buttonhole on the left of piece. Bottom glove- tab and buttonhole on the right.

PATTERN

Row 1: using a foundation sc start, make 9 sc then  8 hdc (or ch 18, and crochet sc into second ch from hook and 8 other ch, then 8 hdc).

(vary the stitch count in Row 1 to make a larger or smaller glove, just measure it along the recipient’s hand or according to desired measurements)

Row 2: ch 1, hdc into each hdc, sc into backloop of each sc (change colour at end of row), ch 1 turn.

Row 3: sc into backloop of each sc, hdc into each hdc, ch1 turn.

Row 4: hdc into each hdc, sc into the backloop of each sc (change colour) ch1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 (ending on a row 4) until the top of your glove (hdc section)  is just wide enough to fit around the widest part of your hand (don’t make it too big!). I made 18 rows total.

continue with tab

Working in backloops only,

Row 19: sc into each sc, ch 1 turn. (9 sts)

Row 20: skip 1 sc, sc into next 8 sc, change colour, ch 1, turn.(8 sts)

Row 21: sc into next 3 sc, ch 3, skip 3 sc, sc into next 2 sc, ch1 turn. (8 sts)

Row 22: skip 1 sc, sc into next sc, sc into next 3 ch, sc into next 3 sc, change colour, ch1, turn. (7 sts)

Row 24: sc into each sc, ch 1, turn. (7 sts)

Row 25: skip 1 sc, sc into next 6 sc (6 sts)

You can end the tab here, OR continue changing colours and repeating rows of sc (no more decreases) with another buttonhole.

To make edging:

For the first glove, continue after end of row, do not cut yarn, ch 1, do not turn, this will be the Right Side for this glove. Sc into bottom corner and sc along bottom edge of glove, working into the sides of the rows. Do not work 1 sc into each row, work 2 sc, skip 1 row, repeat, otherwise the edge will ruffle. Sc into corner, and ss into the other side of the 9 sc in your starting row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to stitch the sides.

img_0456for the second glove, fasten off after Row 25. Join yarn with ss as shown in the photo, in the last sc of Row 1. This will be the right side of this glove facing you. Ss into each sc, sc into corner, sc along bottom edge into the sides of the row as with previous glove, sc into corner, fasten off.

ASSEMBLY

For each glove, Fold glove with wrong side on the inside. Join yarn just above tab, sew sides together, leaving a wide enough space to a thumb.

Sew on button.

Weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

Viking Helmet Pattern (Crochet)

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Child Size Viking Helmet

A couple months ago I made a Viking hat inspired by a baby hat bought by a friend for her daughter. I was curious about making one because there seemed to be a lot of paid patterns but no nice free ones. I looked at actual Viking helmet pictures and depictions online to determine what to do considering I was using yarn to represent metal and bone. It wasn’t too difficult but…I never wrote down what I did and I gave it away. So after consulting my memory and photos, and with the assistance of my pattern tester (a.k.a. My sister), I have a written pattern!

I have also posted the pattern on Ravelry so you can add it to your queue and see other projects.

Please note that this is an original pattern which belongs to me and is provided for your personal use. You can share the link but do not copy or share the pattern without permission. Feel free to use the pattern to make as many Viking Helmets as you like and sell them too. Just credit me or link to the pattern when you do. Thanks much!

VIKING HELMET PATTERN: CHILD (TEEN, ADULT)

Materials:

  • Yarn: Main colour (MC) – about 2-3oz worsted weight (size 4) yarn in a steel colour (I used Caron One Pound in Gray)
    Contrasting colour (CC) –
  • Horn Colour (HC): about 1 oz worsted weight yarn in a bone, or cream colour (I used RH Super Saver Aran)
  • Hook: For Helmet: size I (5.5 mm) or size to get desired dimensions.
    For Horns: size H
  • Stuffing/Polyfill for horns.

Pattern Notes:

  • Pattern written using American terms.
  • All rounds begin with a ch2. If the pattern starts the Round with 2 dc, this will be a ch2 and dc in the first st of the previous round (i.e. the same stitch into which you would have joined a ss). You can use whatever method you prefer for a substitute dc i.e. ch3, sc+ch etc.

Sizing

The pattern provides the instructions to make a Child, Teen or Adult sized hat, just follow the directions where rows or stitch counts are varied. They should be the following dimensions (this pattern possible runs a little large, so if you crochet loosely, perhaps use a smaller hook).

Size Circumference Diameter at Crown (where you stop increases) Length
CHILD 18-18.5″ 6.25-6.5″ 7-7.25″
TEEN 19.5-20″ 6.5-6.75″ 6.75-7″
ADULT 22-22.5″ 7.5-8″ 8-8.25″

To make hat smaller the easy way, use thinner yarn and smaller hook. My pattern tester (aka my sister) used H hook with Caron Simply Soft for the Child pattern and it was small enough for a baby. OR Stop increases when you have the crown diameter you need (check this chart as a good guide). Then work the rest of the pattern without any increases until the hat is 1.5” short of the length you want. This will not affect the hat details (ridging and puffs). For the brim, space out the 6 Puff stitch clusters in Round 15 with even numbers of dc between, depending on the number of stitches in your round.

To make hat larger, do additional stitches in Round 6 until you have the hat diameter you need (check this chart). Then continue with the pattern from Round 7 without increases until the hat is 1.5” short of the length you want. For the brim, space out the 6 Puff stitch clusters in Round 15 with even numbers of dc between, depending on the number of stitches in your round.

Special Stitches

FPTRFront Post Treble – Yarn over twice (3 loops on hook), insert hook around post of stitch in the row below, working from the front of the hat, inserting hook on the right of the stitch towards the back of the piece and bringing it out on the left of the stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops, 3 times (1 loop on hook).

Puff Stitch – this is to make the raised round detail on the hat. Yarn over and insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up loop to height of a dc (3 loops on hook). Repeat 9 times (21 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through ALL loops on hook. Depending on the thickness of your yarn, it may be difficult to do this with 21 loops. You can do as many as you can fit that will make a round puff, or you can try it in 2-parts, working in SAME stitch – yarn over and pull up 5 times (11 loops), pull through all loops, repeat.(If you do the Puff St over 2 stitches, then on the round above the Puff St, you will work 2 dc-together over the 2 puff stitches.)

20170109_180636
Working into the row above the Puff Stitch.

Working into the Puff stitch on the following row – the stitches may be hard to find, but the Puff St top will look like a ch in the CC, and the next st will be a ch in the MC. The picture on the left shows how to work the stitches in the row above the Puff St. You will end up with 4 dc between two FPTR.

PATTERN

HELMET

20161002_125125-viking-helmet-beginningRound 1: With MC, make a magic ring, 12 dc into ring, pull end to close ring tightly. Join with ss to first dc (12 st)

Round 2: *2 dc in first st, dc in next st, FPTR around post of dc just worked, 2 dc in next st, repeat pattern from * 3 times. Join with ss to first dc. (24 st)

Round 3: *2 dc in first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, FPTR in next st, 2 dc, FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc of round with ss. (36 st)

Round 4: *dc in first st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 st, 2 dc in next st, FPTR in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc with ss. (48 st)

Round 5: *dc in each of first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, FPTR in next st, dc in next st, changing to CC in last pull through (DO NOT CUT MC, lay it on top of row below) Puff st (SEE PATTERN NOTES) into next st (working over strand of MC as well), yarn over with MC, make ch and drop CC (cut leaving 2-3 inches of end), dc in next st, FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc with ss. (56 st) (remember the ch after the Puff St counts as a st)

Variations in size from Round 6:
CHILD SIZE – you should have a diameter of 6.25”-6.5”, so no more increases. Round 6: dc in each dc, FPTR in each FPTR. (56 sts)

TEEN (you will be adding 4 additional sts to this round): Round 6: dc in each of next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, FPTR in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts (see Pattern Notes about working into Puff st), FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc with ss. (60 sts)

ADULT (you will be adding 8 additional sts to this round): Round 6: 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st, FPTR in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts (see Pattern Notes about working into Puff st), FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc with ss. (64 sts)

For the rest of the pattern, where there is any variation, the first stitch count will be for the Child size, Teen and Adult counts in brackets.

Rounds 7-8: dc in each dc, FPTR in each FPTR. (56, 60, 64 sts).

Round 9: *dc in 8 (9, 10) sts, FPTR in next st, dc in next st, changing to CC in last pull through (DO NOT CUT MC, lay it on top of row below) Puff st into next st (working over strand of MC as well), yarn over with MC, make ch and drop CC (cut leaving 2-3 inches of end). Skip next st, dc in next st, FPTR in next st, repeat from * 3 times, join to first dc with ss. (56, 60, 64 sts)

CHILD SIZE: Round 10: ch 1 (does not count as sc) sc in each st around, join to first sc with ss. (56 sts). Go to Round 13.

TEEN: Round 10: Repeat Round 7. (60 sts) Go to Round 13.

ADULT: Rounds 10-12: Repeat pattern Round 7 or until the hat is 1.5” short of your desired length. (64 sts)

Round 13: Ch1 (does not count as sc), working in front loop only, sc in same st, sc in each st around. Join to first sc with ss. (56, 60, 64 sts)

Round 14: working in back loops of Round 12 – ss in back loop of first st in row below, ch1 (does not count as sc), sc in same st, sc in each st around, join to first sc with ss. (56, 60, 64 sts)

Round 15: *dc in first 7 (7, 8) sts, changing to CC in last pull through (DO NOT CUT MC, lay it on top of row below) Puff st into next st (working over strand of MC as well), yarn over with MC, pull through and drop CC (cut leaving 2-3 inches of end). Skip next st, repeat from * 5 times, (for CHILD dc in remaining 2 sts, for ADULT dc in each of remaining 4 dc. (56, 60, 64 sts)

Round 16: repeat Round 13 (56, 60, 64 sts)

Round 17: working in back loops of Round 15 – ss in back loop of first st in row below, ch1 (does not count as hdc), hdc in same st, hdc in each st around, join to first hoc with ss. (56, 60, 64 sts) Fasten off.

Weave in ends. When weaving in CC ends behind puff stitch, pull the ends gently to ensure that the puff is round and tight, then weave in.

HORN

Make 2.

The horn is crocheted in the round, without joining at the end of the round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. As you are starting the horn from the small end and it curves, you need to stuff as you go.

Stop anywhere in this pattern if you want a smaller horn and continue from Round 19. For a larger horn, continue working even after Round 18 until you have the length you want, then go to Round 19.

With HC, make magic ring,
Round 1: 4 sc into magic ring, pull end to close tight. (4 st)

Round 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)

Round 3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times. (9 sts)

Round 4: sc in each st around. (9 sts)

Round 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 2 sts) 3 times. (12 sts)

Round 5: sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 6: (sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times. (15 sts)

Round 7: (2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts) 3 times. (18 sts)

Round 8: sc in next st, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, sc in each of next 5 sts, sc-tog over next 2 sts (twice), sc in each of next 5 sts. (19 sts).

Round 9: sc in next st, (hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st) 3 times, hdc in next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, sc-tog over next 2 sts (3 times), sc in next st. (19 sts)

Round 10: sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, sc in each of next 13 sts. (20 sts)

Round 11-12: sc in each st around. (20 sts)

Round 13: (2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 sts) 5 times. (25 sts)

Round 14: sc in each st around. (25 sts)

Round 15: sc in each of next 20 sts, hdc in each of next 5 sts. (25 sts)

Round 16: sc in each sc, hdc in each hdc. (25 sts)

Round 17-18: sc in each st around. Fasten off HC. (25 sts).
(if you want a longer horn, continue working even until you have the length you want)

Round 19: With CC, join to back loop of first st of last round. Working in back loops only, sc in each st around. Join with ss to first st. (25 sts)

Round 20: working in front loops of Round 18, sc in each st around. Join with ss to first st. Fasten off, leaving long enough tail to attach horn to helmet.

Make sure horns are stuffed and shaped evenly. Place horns on either side of helmet, wherever you want (or use photos as guide) and sew Round 19 of horn to helmet.

20170109_183104
on the left is the Adult size with I hook and Pound of Love. On the right is toddler size (using Child pattern with H hook and Caron Simply Soft  made from an earlier variation of the pattern – my sister the pattern tester calls this colour combo “Chocolate Chip Cookie and Milk Horned Helmet”)

Please note that this is an original pattern which belongs to me and is provided for your personal use. You can share the link but do not copy or share the pattern without permission. Feel free to use the pattern to make as many Viking Helmets as you like and sell them too. Just credit me or link to the pattern when you do. Thanks much!